Pampa Linda

Saturday: Woke up early to get the day started. We had to reach the Park entrance before 1015 (1 hour away) because the single lane road will change directions at 1115 at the entrace to Cascadia Los Alceres. With a few delays we showed up at the parque entrance a little behind schedule. However, we decided that we could make it to the end of the road to see the cascades before the direction of traffic changed. (No worries, we were told by many Argentines that they do not abide by laws, they just do want they want!). We made it to the end of the road without complications. The falls were beautiful. Payton enjoyed the water and walking around. As we returned to the parking area from the falls at 1200, we saw a single car pull up the parking area. Jen and I both looked at each other in disgust. These people drove the opposite direction for nearly 1 hour to get to the falls. On our way back out to Los Rapidos (junction for Cascadia Los Alceres and Pampa Linda) we only came across one vehicle driving the opposite direction!) We were told it took 3 hours from Bariloche to Pampa Linda; more like 2 hours. We were lucky to miss the tour buses and the dusty roads. (Once again, it has been raining for days) We arrived in Pampa Linda extremely happy to get out of the car and enjoy the surroundings. It is beautiful there. The Hosteria Pampa Linda in the parque is very nice and the food is delicious. The portions our huge. I mean huge. (I can eat. I think anyone that has eaten with me could agree) I couldn't finish my plate and in my household where I was raised, that was not appreciated. After lunch, we drove out to
Glacier Negra. It is a huge glacier coming down a lower elevation mountain and terminating in a small lake. The reason the glacier is black is from the debris from surrounding decomposing rock. The glacier itself, however, beneath the superficial distinct black markings are white as could be. The lake that the glacier terminated in had numerous floating icebergs within it. I decided to remove my clothes and take a seat on one of the floating icebergs. This has become my tradition, the colder the water the better. IT WAS COLD! Not too much shrinkage and the clothes came back on. Afterwards, Payton was trying to get in the water "Like Daddy." Throughout our time in the valley, we could hear calving from the glaciers. It was a startling sound, similar to thunder that would make you jump up and look for a falling section of the glacier to appear.
After our little Glacier Negra excursion we drove up a little way farther to see some more waterfalls. It was a short hike through a rocky valley. The area reminds me a little of Yosemite because of its rock formations and the carving of the valleys by previous glaciers.

We took some good photos and Payton played with some snow before heading back to the hosteria. We didn't get far from the waterfalls before the girls in the car were sleeping. After waiting in the car for over 30 minutes after arriving at the hosteria and both girls were asleep I decided to go indoors and relax by the fire. Selfish I know, but I wasn't going to sit in that car another minute awake. After another 45 minutes the girls and a sleepy cat (sleeping on the hood of the car) awoke and entered the hosteria. We met a very friendly family from London who were in Argentina for two weeks traveling. They had 3 boys (6,8 & 10). Must have been trying for the girl. Payton enjoyed playing with the children. I think most of all, she enjoyed the fact that the children could understand what she was saying. We had them watch Disney's "Cars" on the laptop (the other children haven't seen it) and it was cute, it was the first time I ever saw Payton quoting movie lines to the other children while the moving was playing.

After a night filled with little sleep (Payton had a rough night) we left around 0900 with the Park Rangers recommendations (or words of precaution) toward Refugio Otto Meiling. It was a very nice fire road trail covered by beautiful forested trees for nearly 2 hours. The last hour involved traversing a steep hill with the Chariot. We were very happy to be able to take the Chariot as far as we did. We stopped on a slippery slope with 1/2 inch of snow and packed Payton out of the Chariot and started on the remainder of the trail. We knew that the snow was going to get a little thicker once we got out of the forested covered area, but we were feeling refreshed and had plenty of time to spare. I was carrying Payton in my arms for another 45 minutes before we stopped for lunch. We enjoyed the views and the sun that was beating down on the white snow. We wished that we hadn't forgotten our sunglasses in the Chariot down the hill at this point. Oh well!, We walked for another 20 minutes before we decided that the snow was getting pretty deep and the snow drifts from the wind on top of the mountain near the refuge started to resemble clouds encompassing the mountain. Without the proper gear for snow trekking nor a true understanding of where the trail resided (the trail markers were covered by the snow), we headed back down the mountain. We had a great hike and Payton truly enjoyed it. It was a good day for me on my Birthday.
Payton was not in the Chariot for the river crossing, Jen was carrying her when I took the Chariot across the river to wash all of the horse poop off the tires. After the river crossing Payton walked a little more than 1 hour before she got back into the Chariot (our doing) since my feet were wet and cold from the river crossing and we needed to get back to the car. She must have walked about a mile. We arrived back at the hosteria at 5:00pm. (The hosteria was closing the following day for the season - we stayed at the hosteria with only the other family from London. The entire 50+ bed hosteria was virtually all ours.)
We drove back to Bariloche and ended the night with Chinese food and Apple pie. It was truly a nice day! Thanks Jen!!!